Guide
How to Make a Magic Ring in Crochet (Magic Circle for Amigurumi)
By Notion Creative Art · Updated
A magic ring is a way to start a round of crochet with no hole in the middle. It is called a magic ring, a magic circle or an adjustable ring, and these names all mean the same thing. Almost every amigurumi toy begins with one, because the top of a head, a nose or a tiny ball needs to close up completely. This guide shows how to make it, how to close it, and how to fix it when it goes wrong.
What a magic ring does
If you start a round with a chain, the middle always keeps a small hole, and the stitches around it cannot be pulled closer than the length of the chain. A magic ring uses a loop of yarn instead of a chain. You crochet your first round into the loop, and then you pull the tail to tighten the loop like a drawstring. The hole closes to nothing, and the stuffing inside a toy stays hidden.
What you need
- A crochet hook that matches your yarn. For amigurumi, use a hook one or two sizes smaller than the yarn label suggests, so the fabric is firm.
- Smooth, light-colored yarn for your first tries. Dark or fluffy yarn hides the stitches and makes the ring much harder to see.
- A stitch marker, so you can find the start of the round.
- A yarn needle, to weave in the tail at the end.
How to make a magic ring, step by step
These steps are written for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed, mirror them: hold the yarn in your right hand and the hook in your left.
- Leave a tail about 15 cm (6 in) long. Hold it in your left hand, and drape the yarn over the first two fingers (the index and middle finger), so the tail hangs in front and the yarn from the ball goes behind.
- Wrap the yarn once around those two fingers, so it crosses itself in an X on the front of your fingers. Hold the crossing point between your thumb and ring finger.
- Put your hook under the front loop on your fingers and pull the yarn from the ball (the working yarn) through that loop. You now have a loop on your hook.
- Take the loop gently off your fingers, keeping the ring open, and hold the crossing point so it does not collapse.
- Chain 1 (yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook). This chain locks the ring in place. It does not count as a stitch.
- Now work your first round of stitches. Put the hook into the middle of the ring, going under both strands of yarn: the ring strand and the tail. Work the stitch as normal. A pattern that says "6 sc in a magic ring" means six single crochets worked this way, one after another, all into the same ring.
- When you have the right number of stitches, pull on the tail (not the working yarn) to tighten the ring. If the stitches pull together and the hole closes, you have the right strand. If the tail only moves a little, see "How to pull the right strand" below.
- Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round, and carry on with the pattern.
Pattern line: Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6). That means a first round of six single crochets in the ring, with six stitches at the end.
How to pull the right strand
After the first round you can see two strands coming out of the ring: the tail, and a strand that goes round the stitches. Only one of them closes the ring. To find it, pull gently on one strand. If the ring gets smaller and the stitches slide together, that is the correct one. If the tail just moves a little and the ring stays open, you have the other strand, so let go and pull the other one. Pull until the hole disappears, and then make sure the stitches lie flat.
Why patterns start with six stitches
Most amigurumi circles start with 6 stitches, and every round adds 6 more to make a flat circle: 6, 12, 18, 24 and so on. A circle needs about six increases per round to stay flat. With fewer increases it curls up into a cup, and with more it ruffles. The magic ring makes that first small circle neat, and everything built on top of it keeps its shape.
Joined rounds and spiral rounds
- Spiral (continuous) rounds: you do not join. After round 1, keep going and mark the first stitch of every round. Most amigurumi patterns use this.
- Joined rounds: at the end of the round, slip stitch into the first stitch, chain 1 if the pattern says so, and start the next round in the same stitch. Some patterns use this for flat circles, hats and coasters.
The pattern tells you which one to use. If you are not sure what the abbreviations mean, our guide to reading a crochet pattern explains them, and the US and UK terms chart shows how the names differ.
Common problems and fixes
| What happens | Why | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| The ring will not close | You are pulling the wrong strand | Pull the other strand. The one that shrinks the ring is the right one. |
| A hole is left in the middle | The ring was too big, or you did not pull firmly | Pull the tail firmly after the first round. Next time, make the starting loop a little smaller. |
| The ring loosens and opens later | The tail was not secured | Pull the tail tight, weave it in firmly through several stitches, and tie it off with a small knot against the fabric. |
| The stitches are hard to push into the ring | The loop is too small to work in | Make the loop a little larger and work the stitches before you pull it tight. |
| The ring unravels when you tighten it | You worked into only one strand | Make sure your hook goes under both strands of the ring each time. |
| You lost count of the stitches | All stitches look the same in a tiny ring | Count the stitches after the round, and put a marker in the first one before you tighten. |
A simpler option: the chain ring
If the magic ring keeps frustrating you, there is an easier way to start a round. Chain 2, then work 6 single crochets into the first chain you made (the one farthest from the hook). Join with a slip stitch or carry on in a spiral. The middle may keep a very small hole, but it is much easier to learn, and for many toys the hole is covered by stuffing or by the next round. You can switch to the magic ring later when you feel more confident.
Practice exercise
- Make a magic ring and work 6 single crochets into it. Pull the tail until the ring closes.
- Round 2: work 2 single crochets in each stitch (12 stitches).
- Round 3: work 1 single crochet in the next stitch, then 2 in the following stitch, and repeat around (18 stitches).
- Count your stitches after every round. If the circle lies flat, you have got it right.
- Keep going to round 4 (24 stitches), then try making a small ball by working a few rounds straight and then decreasing.
If the single crochet stitch itself is new to you, start with our guide on how to single crochet. Once the ring feels natural, you are ready for your first toy. Try a pattern from our crochet patterns for beginners, or download a free crochet pattern and see how it starts. If you want more toys to practice on, browse the amigurumi patterns.
Quick answers
- Is a magic ring the same as a magic circle?
- Yes. Magic ring, magic circle and adjustable ring are different names for the same technique: a loop of yarn that you tighten after you have worked the first round into it.
- Do I have to use a magic ring for amigurumi?
- No. A chain ring (chain 2, then 6 single crochets in the first chain) is a common alternative. The magic ring closes completely, so it usually gives a neater top for heads and tiny parts.
- Why does my magic ring come undone?
- Most often the tail was not secured. After you tighten the ring, weave the tail through several stitches and tie a small knot before you trim it. Also check that your hook goes under both strands every time you work into the ring.
- How many stitches go into a magic ring?
- The pattern tells you. Six is the most common number for amigurumi, because six stitches in the first round, then six more in each round, keeps a flat circle flat.
- Can I make a magic ring with thick or fuzzy yarn?
- You can, but it is harder, because the stitches are hard to see and the loop does not slide easily. Practice with smooth, medium-weight yarn in a light color, and move to thicker or fuzzy yarn after you are comfortable.
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