How to Wash Crochet and Amigurumi Without Ruining It

Knowing how to wash crochet is mostly about being gentle. Water, heat and rubbing are what damage handmade items, so the safest method is almost always cool water, a mild soap and no wringing. This guide explains how to read the care label, how to hand wash a blanket or an amigurumi toy, when a machine is reasonable, how to dry and reshape your work, and which mistakes to avoid.

Start with the yarn label

The paper band around your yarn is your best instruction sheet, so keep it. If you have lost it, write down the fiber name when you buy the next skein. Our guide to reading yarn labels covers the rest of the band. If you do not know the fiber, hand wash in cool water.

Care symbols in plain words

Symbols are not always printed the same way, so treat this list as general and trust your own label.

Test for color bleed first

Dark reds, blues and blacks can release dye the first time they get wet and stain pale yarn beside them. Test a scrap before the first wash.

1. Wet a leftover scrap of the dark yarn in cool water for a few minutes.
2. Press the scrap onto a white paper towel or a white cloth.
3. If color transfers to the towel, or the water looks tinted, the yarn may bleed. Wash that piece alone in cool water and rinse until the water runs clear.

How to hand wash crochet, step by step

1. Fill a clean basin or sink with cool to lukewarm water, enough to cover the piece.
2. Add a small amount of mild soap or a wool-safe wash. Use less than you think you need, since leftover soap can leave stiffness.
3. Press the piece under the water and let it soak for about 10 to 15 minutes. Gently squeeze the suds through it without rubbing or twisting.
4. Drain the basin and refill it with clean water of the same temperature. Press the piece again to rinse. Repeat until no suds appear.
5. Lift the piece out with both hands, supporting its weight. Wet yarn is heavy and can stretch if it hangs.
6. Press out water by squeezing gently, then roll the piece in a clean towel and press on the roll to soak up more moisture.

Machine washing in a mesh bag

Use a machine only when the label allows it. Put the item inside a zipped mesh laundry bag so loops and edges do not catch, choose a gentle or delicate cycle with cool water and a low spin, and wash it with a few similar colors or alone. Toys are riskier, because stuffing can shift and clump, so hand washing is usually kinder.

Drying: flat or tumble

Drying flat is the safest choice for nearly everything. Lay the piece on a dry towel, nudge it back into shape and leave it away from direct sun and heaters. Thick toys can take a day or two to dry, and damp stuffing can smell musty, so be patient. Tumble dry only if the label allows it, on the lowest heat. Heat and tumbling can shrink wool and distort other fibers.

Special cases for toys and fibers

• Toys with wire, glued parts or rattles: do not soak them. Wire can rust or bend, glue can loosen, and a rattle can be damaged by water. Spot clean with a damp cloth and a little soap instead.
• Safety eyes and noses: plastic parts are usually fine in cool water, but check that they are still firmly attached afterward. See our guide to safety eyes.
• Wool: it can felt and shrink with heat or friction. Use cool water and no wringing.
• Superwash wool: treated to resist felting and often machine washable, but still dry it flat unless the label says otherwise.
• Cotton: strong when wet, so it handles washing well, but heavy and prone to shrinking, so wash it cool.
• Acrylic: easy to care for, but it is a plastic-based fiber. High heat from a dryer, a hot iron or a radiator can melt or distort it and leave it flat or shiny, and the damage cannot be undone.

Fiber and washing advice at a glance

Reshape and refluff a toy

While the toy is still slightly damp, squeeze the stuffing gently with your hands to break up any clumps and push it back into place. Pull the body, ears and limbs into their original shapes, then let it finish drying. Once dry, brush the surface lightly. If the toy stays lumpy, you can restuff it, as described in our guide to stuffing and assembling amigurumi.

How often to wash and how to store

Wash only when the piece is dirty or smells, because every wash is wear. Between washes, shake out dust, spot clean marks and air the piece. Store clean, fully dry crochet in a cloth bag or breathable box, folded loosely. Avoid sealed plastic, which traps moisture, and hanging, which stretches the stitches.

Common problems and fixes

Mistakes to avoid

• Wringing or twisting the piece, which distorts stitches and stretches fibers.
• Using hot water, which can shrink wool and set stains.
• Drying on a radiator, in a hot dryer or in strong sun, which can damage fibers and fade colors.
• Using bleach or strong detergent unless the label allows it.
• Skipping a check of eyes and seams afterward. Rules differ by country, but inspecting small parts after every wash is good practice.

Practice on a swatch

Wash a small swatch made from the same yarn before washing your finished project. It shows you shrinkage and color bleed before they can harm a finished piece. If you are choosing yarn for a toy, our best yarn for amigurumi guide can help, and every pattern in our shop lists its materials.