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Amigurumi

Yarn Over vs Yarn Under for Amigurumi: What Is the Difference?

Yarn over vs yarn under in amigurumi: how each wrap is made, how the stitches look, which loops you work into and when the tighter yarn under method helps.

7 min readUpdated By Notion Creative Art

In this guide10 sections
  1. What a yarn over is
  2. What yarn under means
  3. How the two stitches differ
  4. Which loops you go into
  5. Why amigurumi crocheters use yarn under
  6. How to try yarn under, step by step
  7. Tightness and stuffing
  8. Common problems and fixes
  9. Should you switch?
  10. Practice plan

If you have read amigurumi tutorials, you may have seen crocheters argue about yarn over vs yarn under. Both are ways of wrapping the yarn around the hook while you make a stitch. Yarn over is the standard method that nearly every pattern assumes. Yarn under is an optional variation that gives a slightly different, often tighter, stitch. This guide explains what each one is and when a change is worth making.

What a yarn over is

A yarn over (yo) is the move you make dozens of times in every round. With the hook in the stitch, you bring the working yarn over the top of the hook, from back to front, so the hook can catch it and pull it through. It is the first thing taught in our single crochet guide, and it is the default in US and UK patterns alike. Unless a pattern says otherwise, assume yarn over.

What yarn under means

Yarn under changes the direction of the wrap. Instead of laying the yarn over the top of the hook, you pass the hook under the working yarn, so the yarn wraps around the hook the opposite way. The hook then catches it and pulls it through. Some crocheters call this the "yarn under" or "reverse yarn over" method. It is not a different stitch with its own abbreviation, and it is not a mistake. It is simply another way of making the same stitch.

How the two stitches differ

The wrap direction decides how the new loop sits. With yarn over, the loops usually sit open and slightly slanted. With yarn under, the loop that comes through is often twisted a little, which can make the stitch look slimmer and more upright, a bit like a knit stitch. Many people also find the fabric denser, with smaller gaps. How strong the effect is depends on your tension, your yarn and your hook, so treat the table as a general guide rather than a rule.

Yarn over and yarn under compared
FeatureYarn overYarn under
Used by most patternsYes, it is the defaultNo, it is optional
Stitch lookOpen, slightly slantedOften slimmer and more upright
Gaps between stitchesCan show, especially on a loose roundUsually smaller, though it varies
Hook sizeAs the pattern saysSome people go up one size, see below

Which loops you go into

The wrap does not change where you put the hook. You still work into the stitch the pattern names, normally under both loops of the top V, and you still count one V per stitch. The difference happens after the hook is in. In single crochet there are two wraps: the first one pulls a loop through the stitch, and the second one pulls through the two loops on the hook. Some crocheters use yarn under for only the first wrap, others for both. Try each way on a small swatch and keep the one that gives the neater result.

Why amigurumi crocheters use yarn under

Amigurumi is worked tightly so the stuffing cannot show through. A denser stitch with smaller gaps is helpful for that, especially on pale yarn and on firm, stuffed shapes. Yarn under can also help the edge of a round look cleaner. It is a matter of preference, not a requirement. Plenty of well-made toys use plain yarn over, and even tension matters more than the wrap direction. Our guide to stuffing and assembling amigurumi covers the other half of keeping gaps hidden.

How to try yarn under, step by step

  1. Make a flat circle of single crochet in yarn over first, so you have something to compare against. A magic ring and 3 rounds (6, 12, 18 stitches) is plenty.
  2. Start a second circle in the same yarn and hook. Insert the hook into the stitch as normal.
  3. Instead of wrapping the yarn over the top of the hook, move the hook under the working yarn so the yarn catches from below. Pull the loop through the stitch.
  4. For the second wrap, use yarn under again or go back to yarn over. Pull through both loops on the hook.
  5. Compare the two circles side by side. Look at gaps, stitch shape and how easy each was to work.

Tightness and stuffing

Yarn under can make the loops grip the hook more, so the stitches feel tighter and take more effort to pull through. That is useful for hiding stuffing, but it can tire your hand, and very tight stitches make decreases hard to work. If a round feels stiff, you can go up one hook size, for example from 2.5 mm to 3 mm, and see if the fabric is still dense enough. Check the final size against the pattern, because a changed stitch or hook can make a toy a little smaller or larger. Our guide to making amigurumi bigger or smaller explains what to expect.

Common problems and fixes

Yarn under troubleshooting
What you seeWhy it happensWhat to do
The stitches are very hard to pull throughYarn under plus a tight grip makes the loops snugRelax your hand, or try a hook one size larger.
The fabric looks twisted or unevenSome rounds used yarn over and some used yarn underPick one method for the whole piece, or change only at a clear point such as a new part.
The stitch count seems offThe loops look different, so the Vs are harder to findCount the V shapes on the top of the round and use a stitch marker.
A new piece is a different size from the firstYarn under changed your tensionMatch method and hook on every part of the toy, or swatch first.
Decreases are bulky or stiffThe tight stitches resist the hookWork the decrease more loosely, or try an [invisible decrease](/guides/invisible-decrease-amigurumi).

Should you switch?

If you are new to crochet, stay with yarn over until your stitches feel steady. Adding a second technique too early makes it hard to tell what is causing a problem. Once your rounds are even, yarn under is a low-risk experiment on one small toy. Most patterns are written for yarn over, so you are free to try it or skip it. Each pattern in our amigurumi patterns section lists its skill level, which helps you decide when to experiment.

Practice plan

Make two small circles from the same yarn and hook, one in yarn over and one in yarn under, and keep both. Stuff them lightly with a small piece of fiberfill and look at which one hides it better and which feels more comfortable to make. Then pick one for your next toy. If you want something quick to try it on, browse a bunny or keychain pattern, which are small enough to finish in a short session.

Quick answers

No. Both wrap the yarn around the hook, but yarn over lays the yarn across the top of the hook while yarn under passes the hook beneath the yarn, so the wrap goes the opposite way. The finished stitch is the same stitch, but it can look a little different.

Standard patterns assume yarn over unless they say otherwise. Yarn under is an optional technique, so you can try it without changing the stitch counts in the pattern.

Many crocheters find the fabric denser and the gaps smaller, but it depends on your tension, yarn and hook. Make a small swatch both ways to see what it does for you.

It can, because the stitch shape and tension change a little. If size matters, work a swatch or a small part first and compare it with the measurements in the pattern.

You can, but the fabric may look uneven if you switch from round to round. Most people choose one method for the whole piece, or change only at a natural break such as a new part.
Next guideAmigurumi Size Guide: Charm, Mini, Small and Plush Sizes